Winterization is the best decision you can make to ensure the success of your project. Jobsite delays cost millions of dollars in California. Under normal conditions, your jobsite would be delayed for weeks (and, possibly, months) after the rain stops. Even if you “rip” and incur the cost of trying to aerate the soil, you still lose a lot of precious time and money. Winterization allows you to get back on your site just 1-3 days after the soil is treated! Once treated, the soil is protected from future rains.
Q:
Are there any situations in which the site cannot be winterized?
A:
The most common misunderstanding about Winterization/Dry-Up is with regards to standing water. Dry-Up will take care of the muddiest conditions, but standing water must be pumped off first. Moisture is the reactive agent to lime, fly-ash and cement, so it would not be cost-effective to spend a lot of energy and money on standing water. After the rain stops, pump off the standing water, Winterize, and go back to work.
Q:
How do you winterize in landscaped areas?
A:
Because the pH of the stabilized soil is 10-1/2 (not conducive to vegetative growth), we carefully work around the landscaped areas. If landscaping is necessary in a stabilized area, topsoil can be placed on the surface and shallow-rooted plants can be grown. For bigger plants, large holes can be dug in the stabilized layer with fresh soil added to accommodate roots and to facilitate drainage.
Q:
Is leaching a problem with Winterization/Dry-Up?
A:
Winterization/Dry-Up raises the soil’s pH for only a short distance adjacent to the stabilized section. Because the calcium hydroxide in Western’s Winterization materials has only a limited solubility in water, its impact upon storm water run-off is minor. Not only is it diluted rapidly, it reacts with environmental carbon dioxide, clay minerals, and other organic substances contained in the run-off to become neutralized.
